All You Need to Know About Eyelash Extensions
Written by Lauren Arent (Lo Clark)
Owner of Bewitched Esthetics & Licensed Esthetician since 2013
November 17th, 2022
Hello my darlings,
With the holidays coming up, I thought I would take a quick break from Skin Care & Ritual education and talk about one of the services I offer. Eyelash Extensions are a very complex service, easily customized to the clients needs but not everyone understands what it’s all about. If you want to make an appointment, I believe it’s important to know what your options are. This will be a very in depth overview, so if you feel overwhelmed please book a consultation to talk with me directly!
General Overview
So first let’s talk about what eyelash extensions are. Essentially eyelash extensions are right in the name, they are an extension of your natural lash. BUT it’s not just length you’ll get from extensions, it’s also dimension and depth, more volume, darker color. Eyelash extensions provide a “wake-up ready” look whether it’s glamorous or natural that you are looking for.
A false lash is attached to each one of your lashes with a hospital grade super glue. In the case of Classic lashes, the ratio is one lash to each of your natural lashes. Yes you have a lot of natural lashes, the average is 90 to 150 or more! Per eye. This means a classic full set typically takes about 2 hours. Time will vary from artist to artist, but 2 hours is pretty standard. I’ve been lashing for ten years, this is my average. It is key to move quickly but not so quickly as to take away from the quality of your full set.
Two Keys to Application
There are two important parts to applying lashes: the application of the lash and the isolation of the lash. If the lash does not adhere correctly to the lash, even with the strength of the glue, the lash can just pop off. I could go into more detail about the application but honestly you don’t need to know more than that. The isolation is important because lash clumping can cause your lashes to fall out more quickly as well as destroy the integrity of your natural lash. Isolation is key. It comes down to the skill of the artist: how they use tools to separate the lashes (this is actually quite difficult especially when you have a client with THICK lashes) and the dry time of the glue they use.
Picking the Right Glue
Materials do matter! The type of glue your lash artist uses is very important. It can mean the difference between coming in every week or every three weeks for fills. Bad glue can also be a health issue. Your number one concern is to make sure there is no formaldehyde in the glue. It should be your lash artists job to ensure this but just do your due diligence. If your lash artist doesn’t know, this is clue #1 to move on to the next one. Picking the right glue means picking a glue that does well in your climate as humidity factors into the curing of the glue.
It’s also important for the artist to pick a glue with the correct dry time. There are glues that cure within 1-2 seconds leaving little to no wiggle room to get the lash application right immediately (expert level). Then there are glues that can take 6-10 seconds which is perfect for beginners. Now there is a clear glue but most are carbon black. I must admit I have never used clear and I am really not tempted to try. The glue I use is excellent and don’t plan to change. I’ve been through many different types of glue in my ten years of experience. The one I’ve settled on currently has very low fumes and a dry time of about 3-4 seconds. It works well in all my lashing and contains NO formaldehyde.
What Lash Material Should You Pick?
As far as the material of the lash itself…this tends to range depending on the lash artist you are working with. Mink lashes are expensive. Yes they are lightweight and fluffy but the cost of your full set is going to jump up $100. I am not trying to exaggerate. It could be more, it could be less. I would never use Mink lashes because I am EXTREMELY against animal cruelty. Even if the brand says cruelty free, according to PETA this is not the case.
As for silk, I have nothing against silk but I definitely had more clients experiencing allergic reactions when I was using all silk lashes. Most commonly, you’ll be dealing with a blend. If you are worried about allergies, have your artist perform a patch test to make sure you are fit for the service
Styles
Now that you know the basics, let’s get a little deeper into picking the right style of lashes for you. There are many different factors here: eye shape, fullness, length and curl. A lash artist should ask your opinion but be able to lead you in the right direction for your eye shape, it can make a huge difference.
Eye Shape
For example, one of my best friends moved from Spokane to Boise last year. She had been getting her lashes done for YEARS by the same artist in Spokane and when she moved here it was my honor to take over. I was definitely intimidated at first. It’s always a little intimidating when you get a lash client from another artist. I always want to make sure I live up to their previous artists standards and satisfy their lashing needs.
Honestly, I had always wanted to give her lashes a try because I believed her eyes needed a different style. Her artist had always done a cat eye shape, which is very sexy, but because of the way my friend’s eyes are shaped this actually gave her a downturn in the eyes. This made her eyes look consistently “sad”. I switched her to Doll Eye from Cat Eye and OMG it made an incredible difference.
So there are the two eye shapes we discussed here: Cat Eye and Doll Eye. However, there are many more styles like Natural, Squirrel, Wispy, Open, etc. If you don’t know what you like, your lash artist can help you decide.
Fullness
I mentioned earlier the option of Classic lashes – the ratio of one lash to each of your natural lashes. The style is in the name, classic. Classics are perfect for everyone, a very natural look. These are kinda like level one.
Let’s jump to level three: Volume lashes. This style is different because the lash artist will apply a fan to each one of your natural lashes. A fan is made up of anywhere from three to ten lashes clustered together and pre-glued together at the base. The lashes that make up the cluster are more lightweight than a classic lash. A classic lash typically has the width of .15mm and a cluster is made up of lashes with a width of .07mm. What this means is that although the fans are made up of more lashes, they aren’t too much heavier for your natural lash.
So with Volume lashes you can see why the drama comes in hot! These lashes are fuller, bolder, overall they have more volume. Not to confuse you here, but there are different levels of Volume lashes. Again, if you are overwhelmed, please book a consultation with me and I can help you decide! If you decide to go on the lighter end, I can use 4D fans (four lashes in a fan) which will be on the more “natural” side of Volume lashes. Or if you want to just dive right in and go big, I can use 10D fans (10 lashes in a fan) for mega volume or Russian volume.
If all of this sounds like too much, we can drop right down into the middle. The Hybrid lash is pretty common, this is level two. Here we alternate – one classic lash then one fan. Again, you can pick how fluffy you want these depending on which type of fans you want to use.
These are things I decide with my client based on the look they are going for, so don’t stress too much if you don’t know exactly what you want. You can always bring a picture of the lashes you want and your artist can decide what is best from this. Hybrids and Volume lashes do take more time for a lash artist. A full set can be anywhere from 2.5 to 3 hours. There is more lash to work with, whether the artist is building the fans herself or using pomade fans, it just takes a little more time to apply.
Length
The length of your lashes is determined somewhat by the length of your natural lash. If you go too long in comparison to your natural lash, you will suffer from exaggerated fall out. The natural lash won’t be able to support a length that is too long, the unspoken rule is no more than 3-5mm longer than your natural lash. My lash lengths are from 8mm to 15mm. If you prefer a more natural look, I’lll use a range of 8mm to 10 or 11mm. Or if you want something more dramatic, I’ll use 9mm to 15mm.
The purpose of a range in lashes is to build the shape (cat, squirrel, natural, etc.) and to mimic the growth of natural lashes. Your natural lashes do not grow the same length, there is variation. Typically the shortest lashes are in the corners and the longest are in the center of your eye.
Finally, the Curl
The curl of your lashes just depends on you. There is C, CC, D, DD, L or J, L+, and M. The most common are C, D and sometimes J. I never end up really using J. My career focus is not on lashes though. This is one of my many services I offer, so my clients typically don’t stray from these parameters.
However, I love to try new things. The only reason I carry J lashes is because I had a loyal client who wanted to try this style so I picked some up for her to try a new experience. Most often, my clients like a D curl. It gives a more noticeable appearance, and honestly even if you desire natural looking lashes you still want them to be noticeable right?!
Most Common Questions
One of the most frequently asked questions I receive is will extensions damage my natural lash. *Sigh* This isn’t a question that can be answered simply. The big picture: NO. If your lashes are applied correctly, extensions will not damage your lashes long term. However, I will add a caveat. Short term: yes. I have clients who have had their lashes on for 4 years, ever since I moved to Boise. When I lived in Spokane I had women who had them on for longer. Whenever they decide to take a break from extensions, they feel like their natural lash length was reduced.
Let me explain the reason for this by answering another question: how long do they last? Your natural lash has a life cycle of ninety days. No they are not like your hair obviously because they do not just continue to grow. Honestly if you don’t know, you just don’t know so here we go.
Lash Cycles
Your natural lash grows out, falls out and grows back in a cycle of 90 days. So when a lash artist claims her extensions last eight weeks she isn’t telling you the full truth. You may have lashes that hold on for that long but each individual lash is on different cycles.
Anagen is the growth phase, which lasts about 4-6 weeks starting from the emergence of the new lash as it grows to full length. Catagen is the transition phase where the lash is not growing but not falling out, about 2-3 weeks. Telogen is the resting phase, where the lash is preparing to shed/shedding/rebirth which can last up to 3 months. This last phase is typically shorter with extensions because of the weight of the extension encouraging the lash to fall out as soon as it’s ready to.
Lash Fills
Because your lashes are not on the same cycles, you will need to get fills to prevent gaps as the natural lashes fall out. Remember you can have more than 150 of those babies on each eye. So in about 3 weeks, you will have lost a significant amount of your natural lashes and the extensions along with them. To keep your lashes looking their best it is recommended to come in every 2 to 3 weeks for a fill. A fill typically lasts about an hour to an hour and a half. This is where your lash artist will clean your lashes, remove old or grown out lashes and fill in all your new growth.
That answers the second question and now to resolve the first! Your lashes will feel shorter after removing extensions because they’ve held the weight of extensions for so long and may not have grown to their full potential over the years you had extensions on. BUT your lashes will grow back to their natural length! It may take the full cycle of 90 days. You can prevent this by using Babe Lash Growth Serum with your extensions or by using this growth serum once you decide to remove your extensions.
And There You Have It
I am so sure I am going to come back to expand this article as I remember little things to add. Eyelash Extensions are so much more complicated than your average client can even imagine. It takes skill and patience, a steady hand and good eyesight. It’s an art!
I haven’t had clients complain about my prices in a long time and I would like to think it’s because they appreciate the time and care I put into my work. I know other artists struggle to defend their prices and hopefully after reading this you can understand how ridiculous that is. Lash Artists work hard to educate themselves and hone their skills to provide YOU the client with the best possible care.
In Summary
I’ve been doing this for 10 years. 10 YEARS. I am a skilled artist and I am very passionate about my job. I make the world beautiful. Which makes me feel truly blessed and I am thankful for each & every one of my clients. I have lash clients from my early years in Spokane that I still love and talk to frequently (shout out to Vonnie, Jackie, and Kristen! LOVE YOU).
My point is, find a lash artist who you respect for his/her skill and artistry, someone you can bond to and look forward to spending an hour with every few weeks. I look forward to my regulars. I know their partners, their hobbies, their pets, their jobs, and they know mine. Don’t just go find someone who can do the job. Find your lash artist. There is so much more behind that title than a job.
Wishing you a life full of beauty and blessings!
Eyelash Extensions
Forget mascara and add a little drama to your lashes with extensions. Available in multiple different lengths from .08mm to .15mm. In this service, extensions are glued to each natural lash, giving length and dimension to ordinary lashes. Fills are recommended every two to three weeks.
Appointment Prep
#1. DO NOT drink caffeine as in coffee, black tea, or energy drinks a minimum of 3 hours before your appointment. This causes the eyelashes to flutter and makes it impossible to adhere the extensions to the natural lash.
#2. Make sure your lashes are completely clean of any mascara or makeup! If there is any residue, it can inhibit the lashes from adhering properly.
*The lash artist can recommend or require a lash cleanse for $10 to ensure you receive the best service.
Aftercare Instructions
#1. DO NOT get the lashes wet for 48 hours to ensure the proper setting & longevity of your eyelash extensions.
#2. Obtain a lash cleanser and wash lashes thoroughly a minimum of twice a week.
#3. Avoid oils as these can cause the glue bond to weaken. Oils can be in products such as eye creams, night creams, and eye shadows.
#4. Avoid wearing makeup on your lashes as it will affect the longevity. If you do wear makeup, please wash ALL makeup off before going to bed. Cream eyeliners are highly discouraged.
#5. Brush lashes at least once a day with the wand given to you by the artist to keep the extensions looking their best.
#6. Use Babe Lash growth serum to keep your natural lashes healthy while you enjoy your extensions!
Classic Lashes
a single extension to each lash for a natural look
*Prices under construction while I move*
Full Set … *
Two Week Fill … *
Three Week Fill … *
Hybrid Lashes
a fan containing multiple lashes is placed on every other lash and a single lash on the alternates for a naturally fuller look
*Prices under construction while I move*
Full Set … *
Two Week Fill … *
Three Week Fill … *
Volume Lashes
fans containing multiple lashes are placed on each of your natural lashes for a big & bold voluptuous look
*Prices under construction while I move*
Full Set … *
Two Week Fill … *
Three Week Fill … *
F A Q’s
#1. How do Eyelash Extensions work?
In this service, a synthetic eyelash extension is adhered to each natural eyelash extension. Depending on the style of lash you choose, the fullness of the lashes and the lash glued to the natural lash will change. In a classic set, a single lash is applied to each natural lash. In a hybrid set, a lash fan (a lightweight cluster of synthetic lashes) is attached to one lash and alternates with a single lash on the next. In a volume set, a lash fan is attached to each natural lash. Lash fans can vary in fullness.
#2. What does 10D mean?
Lash fans can vary in fullness. A 10D fan means there are 10 individual lashes in that particular fan. Fans can range from 3D to 10D or more. The more lashes in a fan, the more dense your set will be.
#3. How long is the service?
A full set appointment will range from 2 hours to 3 hours depending on the style of lashes you choose. A classic fill usually takes 1 hour while a hybrid or volume fill will take at least 1.5 hours depending on how many weeks out you choose.
#4. How long do eyelash extensions last?
Typically you will need a fill every 2 to 3 weeks depending on your preference. This is due to natural shedding.
#5. Why do I need fills?
Each natural lash has a life span of 90 days. In this time period, a new lash grows in and falls out. It takes time for lashes to grow to a point where they are strong enough for an extension to be placed on it. Each lash is at a different point in the cycle. In theory, you lose a third of your lashes every thirty days. The average eye has 150 lashes, so each month you lose at least 50 lashes PER EYE!
#6. Will this damage my natural lashes?
Technically no! When applied by a professional lash artist and as long as proper after care is followed consistently, your natural lash should not be damaged by eyelash extensions. *However it is important to note natural lash growth can be temporarily stunted by wearing eyelash extensions for an extended period of time. Meaning: if you wear eyelash extensions for years over time, the weight of eyelash extensions will speed up the fall out process. Once the lashes are off, it will take a minimum of 90 days for your natural lashes to return to their natural growth cycle. This can be sped up by using growth serums like Babe Lash.
If you have more questions, please read this blog with all the information you might need on eyelash extensions.
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